When passion rules the game:
Paul Gerber's revolutionary new Cal. 33 watch
(Please click on small images to view large ones)
The new Cal. 33 by Paul Gerber is available in 6 different version: First, as a 'pure' version with large seconds display at 8 o'clock, and then with the already discussed moon phase display. Both watches come in either rose or white gold as well as platinum cases.
This is surely a watch for purists, but also for aficionados of unique escapement mechanisms. The reason is the following: As already described in the chapter dealing with the escapement, the seconds hand makes a small jump in the entrance position of the escapement, and a big jump in the exit position. Naturally, this is best observed on the dial side with a large second’s hand. So if you are into escapements, this is the watch for you (white gold/platinum: small images left, middle left; rose gold: small images middle right, right):
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This watch contains it all: the new escapement and the new moon phase. The all-inclusive watch is also the most outstanding watch Paul ever created. It is as if he packed all his knowledge and experience into this one piece. The moon phase display reminds us daily on how we are dependent on factors beyond our control. Nevertheless, at the same time the circling of the moon phase globe perfectly demonstrates eternity (white gold/platinum: small images left, middle left; rose gold: small images middle right, right):
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Finally, a picture of the watch in the new, eucalyptus-wood box. Paul Gerber designed the new packaging with a cushion for the watch, and a separate compartment for the guarantee card and the new, comprehensive documentation which does not only provide you with a user's manual, but also intensively explains the conception of the watch. Furthermore, it contains a 'service maintenance chart' in which every service and every repair will be recorded and signed by the responsible watchmaker. As time goes by, a 'curriculum vitae' of your Paul Gerber watch evolves!
movement:
height: 34.00mm
width: 28.00mm
depth: 5.00mm
winding: manual winding
rubies:
20 (Large Second: 18)
in screwed chatons: 4
escapement: Paul Gerber
balance: Glucidur with screws, hairspring with Breguet terminal
curve
beats: 21.600 per hour
wheels: 18kt rose gold. specially hard alloy
autonomy: 36h
moon phase: accuracy 128 years, display with 6mm globe made
of Lapislazuli and 54 diamonds
plates: rhodinated brass, decorated with Geneva stripes with
an angle of 33°, perlage and anglage
case:
height: 40.00mm
height incl. lugs: 50.00mm
width: 34.00mm
width incl. crown: 37.50mm
height complete: 10.50mm
dial: guilloched and rhodinated brass numerals 18kt rose gold
hands: proprietary hands made of heat-blued steel
crystals: doomed sapphire crystals
buckle: tang buckle (upon request deployant buckle with enamelled
case number) with enameled logo
numbering: individually numbered
At the end, please let me thank Paul Gerber and his wife Ruth for countless hours I spent in their atelier. Their patience and willingness to assist me in my numerous questions and request is exemplary. Last but not least thanks to André Gutzwiller (www.visuweb.ch) for assistance with web-formatting and with several pictures he took using a professional medium-format digital camera.
Part
1 - Paul Gerber's new Cal. 33 movement
Part
2 - Pure in-house manufacture
Part 3 - The new Cal. 33 watches
Magnus Bosse © March 2005 Last update 10 December 2006
